Nov. 22, 1998 THE LOS ANGELES TIMES
By Booth Moore, The Los Angeles Times.

Tea is hot. It's also iced, spiced--and now shaken like a martini at Brentwood's hip new teahouse, Zen Zoo.

Although the tea phenom has been steeping for a few years now, Zen Zoo co-founder Linda Yu says most American teahouses have been based on a Victorian model.

"We wanted to open a fun Asian-style teahouse where people can hang out and learn about tea," Yu says.

The house specialty is the Zenfusion--a takeoff on the "bubble teas," which are quaffed in Taiwan with the same fervor as ice-blended espresso drinks in L.A.

Zenfusions ($2.75) can be made with black or green teas, with honey, mint, passion fruit or mango syrups added. They are poured over ice in a martini shaker, given a shake by the bartender and served in a tall glass. The result is a beverage with a foamy head like a glass of beer, that can be anything from emerald green to sunshine orange in color.

For a twist, you might want to try your Zenfusion with black pearls. These tiny tapioca balls are added to give tea drinks a heavier body and can be slurped up through an extra-wide straw. They have an interesting texture, almost like Gummi Bears.

Another of Zen Zoo's offerings is iced milk tea. Despite the name, the drinks are nondairy, made instead with soy milk. They can be brewed with green or chai teas and honey--a good sore throat remedy.

There are also dozens of hot whole-leaf teas to try, from Japanese popcorn tea (green tea with puffed brown and white rice), to scented rose and jasmine varieties. Snack foods like rice bowls, bao (dumplings) and salads are also available.

The shop, located next door to a Starbucks, carries a range of tea and New Age accessories: ceramic and iron pots, travel aromatherapy kits, tea-scented soaps, incense and perfumes, and Zen Zoo's teas packed into tiny tins. A few items tucked inside one of the store's darling bamboo-handled tote bags makes a nice gift.

Yu founded Zen Zoo with her fiance, Alfred Ritter. The couple met in Taiwan, where they say most of their courtship took place at--you guessed it--teahouses. Other Zen Zoo locations are planned, with a Brea outlet expected to open in January.

With a wide array of flavors (honey, lemon, mango, passion fruit, peach, mint and tangerine) customers are assured of finding a taste that suits their fancy. The mint ZenFusion drink is mild and comforting while the mango flavor refreshes and enlivens the senses.

The tea house also serves a Chai drink that puts Starbucks to shame. The special, Indian black tea is mixed with vanilla, cinnamon, cardammon, ginger, sugar and non-dairy creamer. Black pearls - or bo ba nai cha as they are called in Taiwan - can be added to the drink as well ($.50). The Chai drink is spicy and invigorating, sipped through a large straw to accommodate the size of the chewy pearls.

Zen Zoo also features a vast hot tea menu of green, black and oolong teas from Taiwan, China, Japan and India. Ordered by the cup ($1.75), small pot ($2.25) or large pot ($4.00), tea afficionados will be thrilled by the variety. A special list of rare teas, available only by the pot, range in price from $2.50 to $14.50 and were selected by a Taiwanese tea master.

Complimenting the tea list, Zen Zoo's food selections are rewarding, sumptuous dishes that perfectly flatter and enhance the beverages. Traditional dim sum, flavorful rice bowls and zesty salads ranging from $2.95 to $7, round out the establishment's inventory.

The dim sum, served all day long, comes out steaming hot in orders of three. The shrimp shu mei, chicken shu mei and the vegetable dumpling are tasty appetizers, comforting and savory. Platters can be ordered for $8.95.

The chicken curry rice bowl is a deliciously aromatic dish, generously seasoned with curry, peppers and spices. The succulent chicken impeccably adds flavor to the perfectly prepared rice.

Another treat is the ginger chicken salad at $7. This piquant selection tantalizes the taste buds with a pungent, lively ginger dressing, fresh baby spring greens, cherry tomatoes bursting with tang and tender, shredded chicken.

Zen Zoo also offers vegetarian selections of tofu salad, shitake mushroom and spinach and a mixed green salad.

Desserts like the chocolate chip pecan cookie (which boasts that it will calm the spirit) or the chocolate brownie (which will give passion and power) will likely satisfy any sweet tooth.

The relaxed, peaceful atmosphere, stimulating tea selection and yummy eats all make Zen Zoo Tea a place to become a regular. Ritter and Yu have talked about expanding into Westwood. Let's hope Zen Zoo comes soon.

Copyright, The Times Mirror Company; Los Angeles Times 2000 All Rights Reserved)
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